The museums of Athens are buzzing as the tourism season winds up, and like every year most tourists will stick to the script, making an obligatory pass at the Acropolis before moseying off to postcard-perfect (if overcrowded) islands like Santorini or Hydra. Yet to do so could mean bypassing some less Instagrammable but more culturally enriching locales within the orbit of the Greek capital, such as ancient Eleusis just 13 miles to the west.