During the annual World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, the best barbecue in the world can be had in Memphis, Tenn. The 30-year-old competition, among the offerings presented by the Memphis in May Festival, is affectionately known as the “Superbowl of Swine” and the “Preakness of Pork.” Even before the banks of the Mississippi River come into view, visitors to the Bluff City can smell the hickory smoke and roasting pork.

Memphis is as famous for pork barbecue as it is for the blues — Memphis in May celebrates both. During the first weekend of the monthlong festival, the city was host of the Beale Street Music Festival, featuring concerts by more than 60 bands in three days. On May 17–19, more than 250 barbecue teams set up shop along the Mississippi River. Participants camped out smoking cuts of meat. This is barbecuing as sport, and it is the big leagues.

Meat is smoked “slow and low,” very slowly at a low temperature. This method tenderizes the meat until it literally falls off the bone. For a whole hog, the process can take days, and, depending on the chef, the door to the smoker may not be opened again until the pig is ready. Barbecuers wait with their hogs while talking shop and sipping domestic beer.

In the days before the contest, I watched as teams hailing mostly from the South — but some from as far away as New York City — hauled in smokers, wood, trophies from past contests, ingredients, and costumes. Elaborate tents were set up and teams had colorful names such as “Swinebucks,” “The Beverly Pigbillies,” “Piggy Stardust,” “Reservoir Hogs,” and “Hogapalooza.”

Although prizes are awarded for Best Booth, Best Beans, and Anything But, the biggest prizes are reserved for pork, from whole hog to ribs and shoulder. For the team crowned Grand Champion, a 6-foot trophy, $60,000, and serious bragging rights await.

Competitors are happy to debate, for hours, the finer points of pig preparation, without giving away any secrets, of course. Tourists can walk along the river and chat with team members. A walking tour, the Cooker Caravan, is set up to show off the best of the festival’s cookers. Hungry visitors, though, might be saddened to learn that health regulations forbid teams from selling or serving food. To remedy this, festival organizers set up People’s Choice Judging. For $3, tasters receive five barbecue samples and a lesson in how to judge smoked meat.

Several authorized barbeque vendors are also on site, including a Memphis favorite, Corky’s. At the festival, the ribs-and-barbeque joint sells pork sandwiches with beans and coleslaw. The proper way to eat a pulled pork sandwich is as such: Layer the slaw and beans over the pork and eat the whole thing together. And grab extra napkins. (There are also several Corky’s restaurant locations in the city of Memphis and throughout the South.)

But authentic barbecue in Memphis isn’t limited to the festival. The Rendezvous, off Second Street, is another local favorite. Since 1948 this family-owned restaurant has been serving up dry and savory ribs, but don’t expect to linger. Rendezvous serves up a lot of barbecue, and they don’t want you hogging the tables.

The Pig on Beale serves up ribs, shoulder, and turkey with attitude, backed by a great jukebox and live performances on weekends. Once you’ve had your fill of meat, you can stumble out on to Beale Street for more music and too tall drinks.

Interstate Bar-B-Que, on South Third Street, serves up sloppy, saucy ribs. But plenty of other options beyond pork are also on offer, including beef brisket, and even barbecue spaghetti. The atmosphere is friendly and it’s on the way to Graceland!

Central Bar-B-Que, whose owner received high honors at the contest, has a fantastic meat sampler tray and hand-cut potato chips with a sprinkling of the same rub used on their meat.

Don’t think you’ll be in Memphis any time soon? Do what all good New Yorkers do: Call for delivery. Corky’s, Interstate, and the Rendezvous all offer overnight delivery. With those ribs in the oven, your apartment should smell almost as good as the banks of the Mississippi during Memphis in May.

vhendrickson@nysun.com