The Camino Diaries, Week Three: On the Desolate Meseta, a Little Slice of Heaven

Outside the village of Itero de la Vega, the outline of the Ermita de San Nicolas appears like a mirage floating on the dense fog, welcoming the wet, cold, and weary travelers — whose feet are about to be washed.

Olivia Norvell/The New York Sun
Preparing for dinner at the Ermita de San Nicolas, a guesthouse on Spain's Camino. Olivia Norvell/The New York Sun

On my second day crossing the dreaded Meseta, the long stretch of dry desolate fields between Burgos and Leon in central Spain, the rain starts. After a score of warm, sunny days, the temperature drops into the 50s, and the wind howls across the plain.

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