The lights come on at six that first morning. The soft snoring that had permeated much of the previous night turns to creaking beds and quiet groans as the eight people crammed into adjoining bunks at the 30-bed hostel contemplate the day ahead — 15-plus miles with an ascent of more than 3,000-foot over the Pyrenees into Spain. On foot. Saddled with a pack of slightly less than 15 pounds.