Much like hi-fi audio and sneaker collecting, denim is one of the cultural worlds I wander through that regularly astound me with their fanatical passion. On forums across the internet, battles rage about Japanese raw denim versus American, the environmental and material quality of various wash techniques, why zips are the best, or that you should be hanged if you don’t use buttons. The word “stretch” is a sentence of instant exile.

The irony is that these hobbies all come from fairly mundane, functional roots. The goal of hi-fi audio shouldn’t be to tinker with electronics to get the most technically correct system; it’s to enjoy great music. Sneakers aren’t for investing in or hoarding in glass-door drawers; they’re for wearing. Similarly, despite the fanatical obsession with the details of denim, the reality is that jeans are the quintessential American trouser, made originally from a cotton both tough and light to be worked well in. They gained popularity in 1873 when Jacob W. Davis of Nevada realized demand for his rivet-reinforced jeans exceeded the capacity of his small tailor’s shop, so he handed production over to the dry goods wholesaler Levi Strauss & Co.

In the centuries since, the brand that invented the mass-market jean has continued to dominate it. They now provide products of all ranges. Along with their classic 501 buttoned jeans, they offer women’s specific silhouettes, high-fashion collaborations, a dedicated vintage line, and even a Made in Japan collection. Having tried many of them, my favorite are the 514s, of which I now own three pairs: in light wash, mid-wash, and black.

By description, they are just another straight-cut jean like the 555, 512, 505, and 501. They have a zip fly, classic 5-pocket styling, and classic denim washes. But it’s the cut that makes them stand out. Though they are a mid-rise silhouette with a straight cut until the ankles, they are slightly longer and have the slightest flair. The result is the bottom of the trousers slightly fold up on your shoes, creating a perfect subtle elevation.

For general wear, they are stretch denim, which denim purists hate and makes them age slightly worse, but I prefer for daily use. The 2 percent elastane makes them more comfortable for weight changes, chafing, and everyday wear. They also wear well, at least in the light wash and mid-wash colorways. Black jeans stay truly black for a limited time before fading, and while some more expensive dyes last longer and fade better, these turn to a shadowy charcoal.

If you have a medium to athletic build and want a pair of jeans that will effortlessly fit into yet elevate any style, a pair of light- or mid-wash 514s are perhaps the best jeans you can get for around $100. My hope is that Levi’s will introduce more interesting colorways and perhaps a high-waisted version in the future.