Complex’s “Sneaker of the Year” panel is the biggest conversation on the sneakerhead calendar. Each year, at the ComplexCon convention, Joe LaPuma and a panel of notable guests talk through Complex’s draft “Best Sneakers of the Year” list, invariably arguing about unwarranted inclusions, unfair snubs, and various side issues. It can get surprisingly testy, and this year, that was more true than usual.

The rapper Lil Yachty arrived late to the stage, having landed late at Vegas, bringing his immense passion for and knowledge of sneakers, but also a chip on his shoulder. In 2024, Yatchy had finally got a Nike deal, and slowly been teasing his collaborative Air Force 1 sneakers, which were released in late 2024. The online response hadn’t been entirely positive.

He’d been allowed to collaborate on one of the most iconic sneaker silhouettes of all time, and given that free reign, he’d made an almost all-white pair with a deep navy sole and lining. From the photos, at least, this limited, collaborative pair looked a lot like the general release pairs you see sitting on sale on JD Sports shelves, and the sneaker internet mocked him for this “lazy collaboration.” One of the people pointing this out had been former sneaker-industry insider Bimma Williams, who was in the ComplexCon audience, and Yatchy lashed out at him on stage, calling him a “dick sucker,” among various other less than eloquent remarks.

This moment eroded much of my goodwill toward Yatchy — an otherwise humble, curious, pleasant-seeming person — but having tried his shoes, I understand why he was so defensive. I had never intended to own a pair, but a sneaker collector friend, Kevin Gerdes — whose total collection is worth six figures — had told me they were his favorite pair of the year. And with a recommendation like that, I had to get a pair, and I’m glad I did.

Yes, they are a subtle pair of shoes — white with navy — but the materials and details make all the difference. Rather than the sheer bleach white of retail Air Forces, this is an ever so creamier, off-white shade; the navy is this deep French navy, and the leather is of a far higher quality than most modern Air Forces, which typically use a heavily lacquered leather, which creases easily. No, it’s not a bold design. Yet it looks exactly like the cool subtle pairs you’d see in early 2000s East Coast hip-hop videos. The details — like the original Air Force 1 dubree and the leather tongue tag — make it seem well thought out and authentic, and you can feel the passion in their design.

They won’t draw attention and get hype, but that’s not their point. They’re a celebration of “if-you-know-you-know” sneaker culture, and wearing cool, well-made, detailed shoes; and it’s one of the rarer Nike releases of last year, with Europe notably only receiving around five thousand pairs through Nike’s SNKRS app. Best of all, because they’re not hyped up, they’re still available on the reseller marketplaces for about $150.

It’s one of those shoes that don’t work from the photos, yet it’s easily one of my favorite sneakers of 2024. I can’t wait to try his next pair.