On Italy’s Adriatic Coast, a Magical Meal Fit for a Roman Patrician

Along the Trabocchi Coast, dozens of traditional fishing huts have been converted to restaurants.

Scott Norvell/The New York Sun
The Trabocco Trimalcione on Italy's Adriatic Coast. Scott Norvell/The New York Sun

Magical meals come along only so often in life. They require a near-perfect combination of setting, company, cuisine, and service. Usually, even if everything else aligns perfectly, one of those is somehow off. The server might be having a bad night. The post-meal espresso might reach the table just a tad on the cool side. Maybe one of the diners had a little too much to drink. Any number of things can go wrong, and at least one usually does.

Personally, I’ve only had a handful of these perfect meals. As a teenager, my first haute-cuisine experience at the now defunct Le Francais at Wheeling, Illinois in the 1980s was one. Another was with my young family at a nondescript roadside restaurant at Normandy one summer afternoon in the early 2000s. Two more that come to mind were at the Blackberry Farm at Walland, Tennessee and one at a churrascaría outside Sao Paulo, Brazil. 

Enter your email to read this article.

Get 2 free articles when you subscribe.

or
Have an account? This is also a sign-in form.
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Service.
Advertisement
The New York Sun

© 2025 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

or
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use