Aficionados of such things remember the finely matched flavors and skillfully executed dishes at Meigas, the prodigally delicious and tragically overlooked haute-Spanish restaurant that brightened Hudson Street in 2000. Chef Luis Bollo has since moved Meigas to Norwalk, Conn., where it receives occasional pilgrimages from the city; its deft alumna Alexandra Raij has opened Tia Pol, a new Spanish destination in Chelsea. Tia Pol’s compelling, simple take on tapas has swiftly filled the small, longitudinal space with nightly crowds; 30 minutes isn’t an unusual wait for a weeknight. The 10 or so seats at the bar turn over only slightly faster than the tables. Nonetheless, fresh-faced, adroit servers keep the food and drink moving smoothly, while, crucially, never allowing a sense of haste to infiltrate the relaxed, welcoming mood that makes the restaurant special. Especially as measured against others in the genre, the comfort of its environment helps significantly to make Tia Pol a success.

The convivial tapas experience shouldn’t make the eater think too hard, and consequently this collection of small, savory offerings doesn’t deviate far from classic tastes, with only the occasional unique edge; the satisfying elegance of the preparations means it doesn’t have to. The simplest dishes, like patatas bravas ($4), manage to impart a thrill; the fried potato chunks are perfectly balanced, moist on the inside and topped with a delicately fiery aioli. The chef considerately positions exquisite, tender lamb skewers ($5 for a small order and $10 for a large one) upright, so they drip their abundant juice onto bread rounds: the herby, tart marinade is too precious to waste. Salt cod and potato brandada ($7), served hot, has a lightly browned upper crust with silky puree below; the cod enriches the potato’s flavor without drowning it.

Slightly more complicated compositions excel as well. A green olive, a pickled pepper, and a white anchovy combine on a skewer ($1.50 each) to form a refreshingly sharp and addictive snack. Pungent white anchovy also finds its way into the center of little crusted tuna steaks ($13 buys four), complementing a mild fish with an intense one. Ms. Raij’s knack for playing elements against each other shows up yet again in a dish of chewy, full-flavored razor clams ($7), cut into strips and immersed in a buttery broth with delicate cockles, the latter in their shells and cooked just past the point of translucency. Also notable is a bruschetta-like toast ($3.50/$7) spread with melted chocolate and then layered with thin sliced garlicky chorizo; the novelty passes after a bite or two, as the flavors meld in a satisfying duet.

And the little treats keep coming, in their lush variety. Pan tomacat ($7.50),a garlic-rich, tomato-daubed Catalan toast (here punningly made with bread from Tom Cat Bakery) comes with three toppings: bright, tangy tapenade, unctuous lima bean pate, and strips of roasted peppers redolent with excellent, grassy olive oil. Ham paquetitos ($9) wrap fresh-tasting artichoke pieces and Manchego cheese in envelopes of velvety dry-cured jamon serrano. Pork devotees can delight further in a platter ($16) comprising billowy sheets of that jamon, translucently red shavings of sweet cured pork loin, and potent, thin bias-cut chorizo slices. Another platter ($7.50/$15) holds a bouquet of cheeses: sweet young Manchego, mildly goaty garrotxa, and gentle blue-veined Valdeon.

The pleasures of the great ingredients and lively preparations can’t be bounded by a mere menu, even one as lengthy as this. Daily specials provide additional variety: sweet green peppers, charred whole and brightened with oil and coarse salt ($8), should be added to the permanent menu promptly. A cold terrine of braised veal cheeks served with fennel-apple salad ($14) is particularly nice.

Tia Pol’s standard is such that the only disappointments are the dishes that are merely average: a cazuela heaped with hot coins of Spanish chorizo ($5) is tasty but unexceptional and perhaps twice the necessary portion; the soft consistency of cold white asparagus ($6/$12) is not improved by a topping of mushy mullet caviar; and a wedge of tortilla espanola ($5) is excellently light but lacks flavor.

Wine, especially by the glass, plays a significant role in the tapas experience, and Tia Pol’s selection is small but well chosen and priced. The crisp, lightly lemony Pazo Pondal Albarino ($9/$34) drinks beautifully with the restaurant’s fish and shellfish offerings, as does the Marques de Gelida cava ($7/$26). Reds include a soft, medium-bodied mourvedre blend from Jumilla, labeled Carchelo ($7/$26), and the fuller, cabernet-based Arteaga Crianza from Navarra ($8.50/$32) – lovely with the lamb. The watery and acidic sangria ($6/$20) is best avoided; for sheer refreshment, turn to the fresh, silky Senorio de Sarria rosado wine ($8/$30).

Though difficult to do, saving room for dessert (all $6) is essential. Flan de naranja vibrates with sour orange flavor; its firm texture will woo even custard haters. The restaurant’s torta de Santiago gives the classic eggy almond cake an exceptional lightness, and “postre calimocho,” a bracing float of red wine sorbet in Coca-Cola, proves that the unlikely pairing, popular as a cocktail in Spain, has real potential.

Sticking closely to traditional tastes, but pleasing American palates with its clear, clean style, Tia Pol succeeds remarkably well. Unlike the uncomfortable urgency that infiltrates many a loud, crowded tapas joint, here the enjoyment is serene. The people waiting to be seated can keep on waiting until they are indulged in their turn.

Tia Pol, 205 Tenth Ave., 212-675-8805.