Secondary Market
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Barcelona’s bountiful Boqueria marketplace is the gastronomic heart of the city. Its stalls vend every sort of food imaginable, and the bars and kiosks that surround it serve a cuisine of skewers and fritters that could hardly be more fresh or more casual. Naming a restaurant after another city’s world-class gastronomic destination is a brazen maneuver, but the proprietors of a new restaurant in Chelsea have done just that.
A fast-moving parade of excellent chefs has passed through the kitchen door of Suba, Yann de Rochefort’s Lower East Side modern-Spanish spot. At Boqueria, Mr. de Rochefort has partnered with chef Seamus Mullen, who is fresh from a stint in Spain, to replicate the Barcelona marketplace’s winning formula in New York. It’s a noble attempt, at least, and the sleek new restaurant is crowded every night despite certain shortcomings in the execution.
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