Pie vs. Pie

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving, and the city’s proposed ban on trans fat is looming. So it is a good time to ask: How will this affect the pie? Though the city council’s proposed ban, which may be revised next month, wouldn’t affect home cooks, it’s an impetus to assess the relative merits of the partially hydrogenated foods.

Since shortening was commercialized into the American diet nearly a century ago, everyday pastry makers have been folding cold lumps of the creamy white fat into flour in search of the perfect crust. Nearly every pie crust recipe today calls for at least a quarter of the fat to be shortening. Conventional wisdom has it that shortening is what makes crust crispy and flaky.

Enter your email to read this article.

Get 2 free articles when you subscribe.

or
Have an account? This is also a sign-in form.
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Service.
Advertisement
The New York Sun

© 2025 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

or
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use