Glasses & Getaways
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Wine lovers make gift giving easy. Never mind pondering whether to buy that foulard scarf or cashmere sweater in just the right shade. Wine lovers want wine stuff, and it is amazing how wine begets such a universe of peripherals ideal for gifting. Here are my choices for the season. “The Oxford Companion to Wine” (third edition) by Jancis Robinson ($65) Hands down the widest ranging, most readable wine reference of all. Nearly 4,000 entries (up by 400 from the 2000 edition) range from a leisurely essay, “Literature of Wine,” to a concise entry on the scary-sounding “Black Dead Arm” (a vine disease). And there are surprises. Who would have imagined, for example, that Turkey has more vineyard acreage than the United States? Ms. Robinson also manages to get in, amid the voluminous data, some tart opinions. Her entry for Diago, for example, notes that the world’s largest wine company “has no obvious wine strategy.” For inveterate Googlers, this handsomely produced reference will bring back the pleasure of idly turning pages. Johnson’s guide is as compressed as the Oxford Companion is expansive. Strong on wine ratings, it includes 20 pages of sometimes unsparing appraisals of Bordeaux. The Margaux property Marquis d’Alesme-Becker, for example, is dismissed as “an underperforming cru classe, once highly regarded.” Wine pairing recommendations, from fennel-based dishes to moussaka, are spot on. Not to be missed are two cogent personal essays by Mr. Johnson: his three-decade overview of the wine scene called “The Plot So Far” and “Agenda 2007,” an attack on the cult of ever-more-alcoholic wines that rises to Churchillian eloquence. These two books, one a shelf stalwart and the other a true pocket guide, come close to covering the whole of the wine world.
Chateau Laguiole Black Horn Corkscrew ($140 at Crush Wines) There’s no lack of highly efficient modern cork-pulling devices out there. Some of them look as if they belong on a surgical instrument tray instead of on the dinner table. Not so this Chateau Laguiole black horn corkscrew, an ultra-elegant version of a waiter’s standard opener. Slender and seductively curved, it feels smooth and cool in the hand. Crafted in Laguiole, a village in the French Auvergne region specializing in cutlery, it is etched with a bee emblem, Napoleon’s symbol representing productive work. It is packed in a wellmade leather case.
Riedel Pink “O” Champagne Glass ($27 a pair) Classic champagne deserves classic glassware — ideally a tulip-contoured, untinted flute. For any other bubbly, the new, pink-bottomed “O” glass is a mood-lifter. It looks tippy, but remains surprisingly stable thanks to extra weight at the base. I find myself putting the pink “O” into service as a morning juice glass. Some of the proceeds are donated to Living Beyond Breast Cancer.
Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port Four-Pack ($299 at Park Avenue Liquor) Do all those holiday fruit and nut cakes seem mundane? Elevate them with this set of half-bottles of “tawnies,” aged 10, 20, 30, and 40 years. Unlike vintage port, which is bottled after two years in vat, tawnies age over the long term in wood. With each decade of additional age, the colors of these ports fade while their flavors intensify. Citric and spice elements of the 10-year-old tawny give way in the older ones to deepening butterscotch and fig notes that echo long on the palate. It comes in a handsome wood presentation case.
PEK Preservino Wine Saver ($39.95 from wineenthusiast.com) The old way to preserve leftover wine for a day or two was to laboriously pump out the oxygen through a special closure. Infinitely easier, and more effective, is Preservino, which allows you to inject inert argon gas into the bottle via a special closure. With this system, today’s weeknight dinner wine can also be tomorrow’s.
Riedel Cornetto Black Decanter ($195 at riedel.com) Nothing dresses up the table like a crystal decanter. In black, it’s sexy dress-up. Riedel, the Austrian crystal master, has introduced a black version of its best-selling, graceful Cornetto decanter. Tradition has it that a decanter must be clear to show off the hues of a red wine. But with this one, there’s an air of mystery until the wine is poured. Maxmillian Riedel, the 11th generation of the family business, suggests using the black decanter for water as well as wine. “It’s nice to see clear water coming out of the black,” he says. Mr. Riedel’s inspiration for Cornetto came from Las Vegas. “After dinner at Aureole,” he said, “I was watching these elegent swans in the pool at the Bellagio hotel, and the easy flow between their necks and bodies got me to thinking, Why not adapt that line to a decanter?”
New Year’s Eve Getaway to City of Wine (about $2,000 plus airfare) For the loved one who is maxed out on wine stuff, how about a gift of travel? This season’s ultimate destination for wine (and architecture) lovers is City of Wine, the startling new hotel designed by Frank Gehry for the Marques de Riscal, a classic winery in the rugged hill and vineyard country of Spain’s Rioja region. Situated at the winery overlooking the sleepy town of Elciego, the hotel is wrapped in giant, free-flowing, titanium ribbons in silver, gold, and wine-red. A special New Year’s Eve dinner will be offered at the hotel’s City of Wine restaurant supervised by Francis Paniego, chef of the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant Echaurren. The menu will mingle new wave and traditional Spanish cooking. The winery’s dark-fruited Baron de Chirel is the wine to drink. Deluxe double rooms start at $580 per night. New Year’s Eve prix fix dinner is $325 a person.