Anxiety was in the air this August when, after almost 20 years, Periyali closed for renovations. True, the groundbreaking Greek taverna had fallen behind the times. New Greek restaurants like Onera and Parea have sprung up, offering inventive twists on the cuisine, while Periyali stuck to the same old formulaic souvlaki and moussaka. But the formula was the best in town — was Periyali planning to radically reinvent it for the 21st century? Sitting in the freshly reopened restaurant for the first time, perusing the menu at the shiny new marble-topped bar, I felt a sweeping sense of relief. Only the details — skylights, a bright mural, fresh upholstery — are new. The reliable food and the charming mood are as old-fashioned as ever.