Drink, Memory

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Audacity, thy name is Cocina de Vanguardia. I have never dined at the Spanish temples of “vanguard cuisine,” but I’ve long been curious as to how well this untraditional food, fomented as much in the lab as in the kitchen, pairs with wine. My opportunity to find out arrived last Thursday at a tapas blowout at Guastavino’s, followed by a benefit dinner for the James Beard Foundation. The guests of honor were the chefs of the chefs of three top Spanish vanguard restaurants: El Buli, Restaurante Arzak, and Restaurante Martin Berasategui. The tapas were prepared by other Spanish chefs of the vanguard.

I loved “Oil Soba ‘In Situ,'”an intense Japanese broth into which chef Paco Roncero squeezed a ribbon of creamycolored soba butter. But I’d not have guessed the dish would have been winefriendly until its salty richness was cut with the fresh, pear-inflected Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay 2005 from a high-elevation vineyard in Navarra.

Enter your email to read this article.

Get 2 free articles when you subscribe.

or
Have an account? This is also a sign-in form.
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Service.
Advertisement
The New York Sun

© 2025 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

or
By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use