Audacity, thy name is Cocina de Vanguardia. I have never dined at the Spanish temples of “vanguard cuisine,” but I’ve long been curious as to how well this untraditional food, fomented as much in the lab as in the kitchen, pairs with wine. My opportunity to find out arrived last Thursday at a tapas blowout at Guastavino’s, followed by a benefit dinner for the James Beard Foundation. The guests of honor were the chefs of the chefs of three top Spanish vanguard restaurants: El Buli, Restaurante Arzak, and Restaurante Martin Berasategui. The tapas were prepared by other Spanish chefs of the vanguard.