Finding the Ghosts of Leonard Cohen and Greek Heroes, Plus a Few Donkeys, on the Island of Hydra
‘He traveled so far for beauty,’ reads a tiny plaque to Cohen near a ravishing view of the indigo Myrtoan Sea, as this bit of the Mediterranean is called locally.

Whether it’s climate change or just how things go, Greek summers have been getting hotter. Whoever can decamp to an island does so, and one that is much in vogue lately is Hydra, though my own affinity for it is tempered with ambivalence.
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