Trail Blazers
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Men who find the traditional blazer just too boring will find plenty of alternatives next year, judging from the looks on display at the menswear shows in Paris over the weekend. At Kenzo, a belt was cinched around the waist of one cropped-sleeve jacket, altering the traditional line of the men’s suit. Another Kenzo model sported a silky cream-and-black cardigan over a white button-down shirt in place of a jacket; this piece had a loose belt of the same fabric that tied in front like a bathrobe. Marc Jacobs also pulled a jacket in at the waist in his collection for Louis Vuitton, in this case with a built-in drawstring.
At Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati showed cardigans that could fill in for sport jackets; his were double-breasted and made of thick gray wool with large black buttons.
Both Yohji Yamamoto and Naoki Takizawa for Issey Miyake were inspired by sports in their collections. In Mr. Yamamoto’s case, this meant American baseball, and accordingly, his high-necked jackets bore pinstripes. Mr. Takizawa, by contrast, looked to lawn sports such as tennis, golf, and cricket for inspiration, showing cleancut looks and graphic striped jackets.
John Galliano, whose show featured a tribute to Dixieland jazz, showed a 1980s-style white double-breasted jacket over a silky coat adorned with musical notes.
Of course, men who prefer a more classic look don’t need to worry that they’ll never find a blazer next summer. Luxury labels such as Hermes and Yves Saint Laurent threw several well-cut and wearable traditional sport jackets into the mix as well.