A different lady showed up on the runways on Tuesday afternoon. Instead of harking back to 1930s glamour or 1980s power dressing, she was proper and polished in a way that recalled the early 1960s and Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy suits. Thakoon Panichgul’s collection was his most extensive and most constructed yet. Moving away from the loose and unraveled looks from spring, he showed trim and tailored silhouettes like hourglass-shaped shawl collar jackets with short matching skirts or skinny black trousers. Mr. Panichgul also explored the corset this season, which meant the built-in bustier appeared on slender mini dresses or high-waisted skirts. Fabric and texture has always been one of Mr. Panichgul’s strongest points, and he sent out some beautiful ivory woolly lace knits and red silk dresses that looked like they had been dipped in paint. Aside from a few overly ambitious notes (like some of the slightly overwrought corset garments), this was a very focused and sophisticated collection

Behnaz Sarafpour also concentrated on minimal shapes and tailored silhouettes reminiscent of Hepburn’s wardrobe in “Funny Face.” Working with a mostly black and gray color palette, she sent out elegant and easy pieces like black trapeze dresses and slim, short coats with pointy shoulders worn with the kind of skin-tight black trousers that are ubiquitous this season. Using her signature mix of materials, she showed delicately layered black lace over white tops and lace applications on jeans that were both simple and effective. Less successful were the kneelength pleated skirts with flower patches that bordered on frumpy. But all in all, Ms. Sarafpour knows what her strong points are and worked them beautifully into her collection.