Maybe the idea of falling leaves and rainy skies throws designers in to a depression. Or perhaps the new fashion rule is to wear only black after Labor Day because the pattern of showing light and positive collections for spring and black and somber clothes for fall is starting to become predictable. Don’t we need something happy and colorful to cheer us up come November? Jill Stuart doesn’t seem to think so. Her Gothfriendly collection, shown at the New York Public Library, was heavy on long clericallooking coats and high-neck, dolmensleeved maxi dresses that seemed like throwbacks to Ossie Clark and Biba. More contemporary looks consisted of rock-star skinny black jeans worn with loose-fitting silky or sparkly tops. Black, grays, and occasional white dominated this somewhat severe collection. It’s hard to imagine Ms. Stuart’s young and girly customer base wanting to look like a character out of “Wuthering Heights.” But they might like her pretty and simply draped black evening gowns.

Downtown designer Tess Giberson showed her first collection for TSE cashmere this season, and the collaboration looks to be a promising one.The looks were just as comfortably elegant and easy as you would want from a cashmere house. Sumptuous cape-like coats, softly form-fitting knit dresses, and light tunics in interesting textures were just the kind of effortless clothes that would make you feel and look great on a frosty winter’s day. But that’s not to say that Ms. Giberson was eager to please. The clothes sported the kind of innovative details and crafty touches that made her a designer to watch in the first place.

It seems Marc Jacobs just can’t stop revisiting his own infamous grunge moment of 1993. Over the years, wool caps and plaid flannel have popped up on his runway from time to time, but the dark and bulky Monday night collection was probably the most comprehensive grunge reference he’s ever done. But somehow, the cocoon-like layers of blanket-size coats, blousy tops, knee-length skirts, and soft, voluminous trousers had a quiet elegance that was surprisingly seductive. Perhaps this successfully subversive collection marks a closure for Mr. Jacobs, so he can finally move on from the past.

Not all designers were in a dark and brooding mood. Costello Tagliapietra brightened up the fall palette by sending out their trademark soft and drapey jersey dresses in warm browns, reds, and light blues.

Sticking to a mostly straight and skinny silhouette, the dresses were as feminine and elegant as usual, even if the shapes were slightly less forgiving than previous efforts. The duo also expanded their range with beautiful, belted loden coats and jackets that perfectly fit their gentle and timeless aesthetic.