Here’s advice for those in search of l’amour as well as l’automobile: When confronted with something (or someone) that’s as painfully near perfect as is the Audi A4 Avant, you can regain lost composure by focusing on its minor flaws. In this way – depending on whether it’s a person or a car that has you trying to reassert self-control – excessive nose hair or tire roar can be of useful service.

In the Audi’s case, we spotted three things that kept it from rolling atop its 18-inch wheels into a state of divine perfection. For one, the station wagon’s Quattro all-wheel-drive system is relatively heavy; for another, the wagon doesn’t come with the continuously variable automatic transmission that’s available on A4 sedans (but then, neither does its Saab 9-5 competitor); and for a third, once loaded with options, the Audi A4 Avant can run you northwards of 45 grand.

However, like all Audis, this one is so beautiful we’d forgive it even if it didn’t include a heater (actually, now that we think of it, the test car’s miserly automatic climate control supplied heat like a Bushwick landlord). The wagon is a refined box, but not so streamlined as to play down its utility, nor so rectilinear as to obscure its sporting bent. This is a car that looks as a car should look – with lines that are elegantly obvious and low-key (of course, as the 2005 A4 is to appear next spring with a grille seemingly inspired by Edvard Munch’s “The Scream,” expect the effect of the car’s aesthetics to amp up in volume).

With the la-di-da of the Avant’s styling covered, here’re some of the nuts and bolts of its equipment: The 2005 Audi Avant, a carryover of the 2004 model, courses evenly over the firmament at the behest of its 3.0-liter V6, an engine that generates 220 horsepower at 6,300 rpm. The 258 foot-pounds of torque produced by this motor gets transmitted to the wagon’s standard Quattro AWD system via the governance of either a six-speed manual or five-speed automatic transmission, the latter equipped with a manual shift gate.

All A4s have antilock brakes, antiskid systems, and front side airbags, while safety-conscious Avants also come with optional curtain- and rear side airbags to address the accident launched torso and head. In addition, Audi revived its S4 lineup – including a 4.2-liter-V8-driven Avant wagon – in the 2004 model year.

The silver test car was equipped with option packages that afforded it a sport suspension, a leather interior, and a Bose sound system – all bringing its price above $44,000. The handsome dash, its cowl describing an arch to match the curve of the perforated leather-wrapped steering wheel, was laid out as is done in Audis and VWs – which is to say in a fashion that makes many other cars’ instrument panels seem ugly and haphazard by comparison.

Superlatives can also be attached to the materials and workmanship in the cabin, where front seats afforded a virtually unimpeded outward view and were separated by an adjustable padded armrest. (Our favorite passenger – a veteran of 100 reviews – was moved to note that the Audi fell into a special category of comfortable cars). The back was similarly expansive, with supportive seating that allowed for adequate head, knee and toe room. Last, the Avant’s cargo area, accessed by a conventionally hinged tailgate, was ample for its class.

But despite the way it attracts all kinds of flattering adjectives, all this is humdrum stuff when compared to the joys of driving the V6 Avant. The wagon accelerated with a verve that infectiously overtook the driver, who in turn could overtake terrain and undertake lane changes with fluid ease while averaging 21 miles per gallon.

The steering sometimes felt over boosted, and the suspension fell victim to high-speed float, but the Avant spooled out power with unflagging perfection while holding the straights with assurance and the tight curves with a grip that seemed nearly supernatural. Driving the Avant, we attained and surpassed advisable speeds in an atmosphere of quiet control while powering our way through switchbacks in a giddy fashion not achievable for most cars.

Ok. We’re better now. Here’s some water. Thanks. Oh, did we mention that the heater didn’t seem to work too well?