Baghdad Performing Arts School Is a Bright Spot in Wartime
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
BAGHDAD, Iraq — In an airy studio lined with mirrors, little girls in pink leotards and boys in black shorts and white T-shirts pull themselves up as straight as they can and push their toes out into first position.
Their teacher, Ghada Taiyi, walks between them, straightening a pair of knobby knees and adjusting the curve of an arm. She switches on a cassette player, and the strains of a grand piano fill the room.
“You wouldn’t think we are in Iraq,” she says with a smile.
In a city full of bloodshed, the Baghdad School of Music and Ballet is an oasis, instilling in its young charges a love of music and dance in the midst of war.
“I feel happy when I come here,” 11-year-old Lisam says as she catches her breath between leaps and twirls in another of the school’s studios.
Through the worst of the violence, Iraq’s only performing arts school never stopped putting on shows and sending teachers and students on cultural exchanges abroad.
But the school, one of the few places left in Baghdad where children of all ethnic and religious backgrounds learn together, cannot shield students from the horrors beyond its heavily guarded gates. Bomb blasts and rocket barrages shook the capital in the few hours that the students were practicing demi-pliés and ports de bras.
“Sometimes, we see people killed and kidnapped,” Lisam, who doesn’t give her last name for safety reasons, says. “Sometimes we even worry about our parents, when they bring us here and pick us up.”
Lisam shares the same dreams as dance students anywhere in the world: “to be famous,” she says.
But unlike girls growing up in less turbulent countries, she practices excerpts from the great classical ballets in her stocking feet, so as not to wear out her precious pointe shoes before the end-ofyear recital. There is no place to buy another pair in Baghdad.
Most of the ballet students drop out when they’re 12 or 13, Ms. Taiyi says, afraid of the Muslim extremists who consider music sacrilegious and kill for much less than dancing in public in a formfitting tutu. Each time a student stops showing up for class, staff members call the parents to ask why.
“They always say ‘security, security, security,'” Ms. Taiyi, a slim woman with a commanding presence who is not afraid to wear a leotard in front of male visitors in her studio, says.
Ms. Taiyi, who says she cried for days when one particularly promising student disappeared without explanation, graduated from the state-run school in 1984 and went on to teach there. Now, she says, “I am afraid that we are going to lose the art of ballet itself.”
The school, which offers primary and secondary education, hasn’t graduated a ballet-major class since the mid-1990s, when Saddam Hussein began courting conservative tribal and religious leaders to shore up his rule.
Even if the students did complete their training, there are no opportunities for ballet dancers in Iraq. The only professional performances most of the children see are on the videos and DVDs in the school library.