A Prolific Pickler Takes on Asparagus
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New York pickle-maker Rick Field is adding a new item to his already expansive repertoire of pickled vegetables: asparagus.
Next month, the owner of Rick’s Picks will unveil his newest recipe, asparagus spears packed in a brine of white wine vinegar, hot cherry peppers, pink peppercorns and orange juice, sealed and then, left to pickle for two months.
“Using citrus notes,” — rather than salt — “in a brine has proven to be very effective and it activates other flavors the way that a salt would,” Mr. Field said in an interview. “It brightens the other flavors.”
When Mr. Field, a former television producer, made the leap from amateur brine-and-jar buff to pickling entrepreneur three years ago, a friend with a Harvard MBA advised him to begin with one vegetable, and set up a process to follow it through to production, from growth. Mr. Field didn’t listen, launching with nine varieties, including beets, green beans, and roasted peppers — and adding okra to his offerings last year.
All of Rick’s Pick’s have irreverent monikers, such as “PhatBeets” (beets in citrusy-spicy lemon, rosemary and ginger brine) and “Windy City Wasabeans” (green beans with a soy and wasabi brine). The newest pickled product, called “Whup Asp,” — asp, as in asparagus — is no exception.
Mr. Field said he loves asparagus, but also had a practical reason for choosing it for his latest adventure in pickling. “It’s a vegetable that is widely available at a time of the year when other vegetables we work with are not available,” he said, noting that asparagus is in season in the late spring. For the time being, the pickled asparagus will only be available on the company Web site (www.rickspicksnyc.com), and at the greenmarkets in Union Square and Grand Army Plaza, where you can still find Mr. Field each week peddling toothpick tastes of his pickled vegetables to shoppers.
“I think there is a pickle renaissance happening,” a fourth-generation co-owner of Russ & Daughters appetizing shop on the Lower East Side, Niki Russ Federman, said.
Of Rick’s Picks, Ms. Federman said: “They are taking the pickle heritage of the Lower East Side and adding some zest to it.”
Rick’s Picks’s Chrystie Street offices are a few blocks from Russ & Daughters, in the heart of the city’s one-time pickling district. “
Pickling was a part of Mr. Field’s upbringing in Vermont. Each August the family would pickle the green beans, cucumbers, and tomatoes his mother raised in the garden. It’s these same recipes that Mr. Field began tinkering with in the kitchen of his Prospect Heights apartment in 1997.
“I wanted to make the brine into something that has more impact,” Mr. Field said. “I think our grandparents ate with a lot less seasoning than what you’re seeing becoming more popular today.”
He got his first acclaim in 2001 at the annual Rosendale International Pickling Festival upstate where he won six ribbons including a “Best in Show” award for his green beans. He won again in 2002 and 2003 and began laying the groundwork for Rick’s Picks LLC.
The only problem: Mr. Field knew how to pickle, but he knew little about running a food company.
Friends introduced him to his current business partner, Lauren McGrath, who, with a background in food writing and as an understudy to restaurateur Drew Nieporent had an understanding of the industry. Ms. McGrath shepherded finding a packing plant in Poughkeepsie, N.Y., and securing the local sources to get the roughly 1,000 pounds of vegetables needed for each batch.
“He was loving the idea, but didn’t really have an understanding of how to produce it,” Ms. McGrath said.
Now he does — and asparagus aficionados are the latest to benefit.