While a sophomore at Oberlin College, I found myself briefly eating in a student co-operative where a vocal and intimidating faction of vegans had managed to ban white flour, refined sugar and, of course, meat. Since that semester of brick-like bread, undercooked lentils and mushy brown rice, I have harbored a healthy skepticism of “natural foods,” particularly those wholesome baked goods devoid of sugar and white flour. So I was pleasantly surprised by Ania Catalano’s “Baking With Agave Nectar” (Celestial Arts, $15.95) which, without using either of those magical (yet high on the glycemic index) white substances, offers up many tempting and satisfying treats.

Agave nectar, from a Mexican plant better known for its role in tequila production, is the only sweetener with “no shortcomings,” according to Ms. Catalano, a self-described “dessert lover” who discovered natural cooking when she was diagnosed with hypoglycemia 20 years ago. Ms. Catalano, who is now the owner of a gourmet whole foods catering and cooking school in Milford, Conn., writes that agave nectar, also known as agave syrup, is low-glycemic, making it safe for most diabetics. It also is unrefined and lends itself better to baking than do other natural sweeteners, such as honey and maple syrup.

Most important, it tastes good.

In addition to being imaginative and tasty, most of Ms. Catalano’s recipes are fairly simple, although — unless you are the sort of person whose pantry is regularly stocked with things like quinoa flour and flaxseed — all require a preliminary (and expensive) shopping trip to a natural foods store.

As I used “Baking With Agave Nectar,” I gained new respect for white-flour alternatives such as oat flour, barley flour, and sprouted spelt flour. Unlike some cookbooks, which simply substitute whole-wheat pastry flour for white flour, this one makes creative use of a range of healthful ingredients, many of them godsends for the ever-growing ranks of the gluten-intolerant.

In addition to pleasing folks on restricted diets — many of the recipes are vegan — “Baking With Agave Nectar” should also appeal to the health-conscious parents who made Missy Chase Lapine’s “The Sneaky Chef” (Running Press) and Jessica Seinfeld’s “Deceptively Delicious” (Collins), rival books about slipping healthy ingredients into children’s meals, runaway best-sellers. None of the recipes go so far as to include pureed spinach, but the whole-grain flours and other all-natural ingredients discreetly pack in a lot more nutrients and fiber than not only the typical dessert, but than most breakfasts.

Indeed, I felt a little like Mrs. Seinfeld (albeit a poorer Mrs. Seinfeld, with a younger, not-quite-as-funny husband) as I set to work on the gluten-free Amazing Black Bean Brownies, a concept so bizarre it piqued my curiosity. I’ve never been a fan of molé sauce, and surely this was packing way too much fiber and protein into a dessert. Fortunately, the brownies turned out “deceptively delicious,” proving either that black beans are far more versatile than I’d believed, or that enough chocolate, butter, and sweetener will make any dessert yummy. When still warm out of the oven, the brownies did betray a hint of black beans. But once chilled, the bean flavor was more elusive (a friend told me it vaguely reminded her of those red bean buns they sell in Asian bakeries), and the brownies had a texture, creaminess, and slight tanginess that, despite the lack of cream cheese, mimicked cheesecake. They fooled my 4-year-old daughter, and they stayed fresh more than a week in the refrigerator.

I also enjoyed making and eating Quinoa Corn Blueberry Muffins, another gluten-free recipe. Neither project was particularly demanding, although the instructions were not always as clear as I would have liked. In the brownie recipe, Ms. Catalano never stipulated whether the one-fourth cup instant coffee should be brewed or in powder form (I brewed it, but made it very strong, which seemed to work out fine). The corn-blueberry muffin recipe didn’t have any cooling instructions, nor did it offer advice on how to prevent the frozen blueberries from (combined with the yellow cornmeal) turning the batter green.

One downside to working with agave nectar, I found, was the stickiness. It’s easier to clean up than honey, but a little spill came perilously close to forever sealing the pages of the brownie recipe together. Definitely use a plastic cover for the cookbook.

In any event, I’m tempted to send a copy to my old co-op.

Black Bean Brownies (Gluten-Free)
Adapted From “Baking With Agave”

4 oz. unsweetened chocolate

1 cup unsalted butter or non-hydrogenated butter substitute

2 cups soft-cooked black beans, drained well

1 cup walnuts, chopped

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/4 cup natural coffee substitute (or instant coffee, for gluten-sensitive)

¼ teaspoon sea salt

4 large eggs

1½ cups light agave nectar

Canola oil spray

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line an 11-by-18-inch baking pan with parchment paper and lightly coat with canola oil spray.

2. Melt the chocolate and butter in a glass bowl in the microwave for 1 1/2-2 minutes on high. Stir with a spoon to melt the chocolate completely.

3. Place the beans, 1/2 cup of the walnuts, the vanilla extract, and a couple of spoonfuls of the melted chocolate mixture into the bowl of a food processor. Blend about 2 minutes, or until smooth. The batter should be thick and the beans smooth. Set aside.

4. In a large bowl, mix together the remaining 1/2 cup walnuts, remaining melted chocolate mixture, coffee substitute, and salt. Mix well and set aside.

5. In a separate bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the eggs until light and creamy, about 1 minute. Add the agave nectar and beat well. Set aside.

6. Add the bean-chocolate mixture to the coffee-chocolate mixture. Stir until blended well. Add the egg mixture, reserving about 1/2 cup.

7. Mix well. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Using an electric mixer, beat the remaining 1/2 cup egg mixture until light and fluffy.

8. Drizzle over the brownie batter. Use a wooden toothpick to pull the egg mixture through the batter, creating a marbled effect.

9. Bake for 30-40 minutes, until the brownies are set. Let cool in the pan completely before cutting into squares. (They will be soft until refrigerated.)

Makes 45 (2-inch) brownies