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Farmed Fish, Norwegian-Style

by Zoe Strimpel
Tue, 13 Nov 2007 at 9:04 PM
updated Tue, 13 Nov 2007 at 9:13 PM

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TROMSØ, Norway — One little thinks of Norway as a big country (or, indeed, gives the country due thought at all), but the two-hour flight from London to Oslo was matched in length by the one immediately following from Oslo to Tromsø, one of Norway's northernmost cities. There is a big university here that apparently fills the place with students, but the first impression is one of a genteel chalet town, not a party city heaving with bars. And there are boats. Lots of boats. The harbor reaches right up to the town's main street (and our hotel: The Rica Holberg). Vessels from sleek Norwegian research ships to gargantuan, rusting Russian fishing boats to quaint little dinghies sit in its placid waters.

The heavy presence of boats signifies the heavy presence of fish on the local mind. We are here courtesy of the Norwegian Seafood Export Council, and their task is to show us how the country manages a sustainable fishing program. No wonder they are concerned to explain and demonstrate their third biggest export, after oil/gas and metals. Twenty-seven million meals composed of Norwegian seafood are eaten in the world every day, we learn. And the U.K. uses more Norwegian salmon than homegrown (from Scotland, say).

Indeed, the care and attention currently being given to cultivating fish stocks was evident in the well run, immaculate research station we stopped at, then the sea farm where salmon, cod, halibut, and more swam in crystal clear water nets. The message is that farmed (vs. wild) fish is a very good choice, if done the Norwegian way, and from what we've seen so far (and judging from the murmurs of approval from the Michelin-starred chefs with us), that may well be so.

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